Most Precious by Evyan (1947)

Most Precious by Evyan was launched in 1947, a time when the world was emerging from the shadows of World War II and seeking both elegance and optimism in everyday life. The perfume’s name, inspired by a book that Baron Walter Langer von Langendorff was reading, evokes images of treasured beauty, refined sophistication, and heartfelt sentimentality. To a woman of the late 1940s, “Most Precious” suggested something cherished, rare, and intimate—an indulgence both personal and aspirational. It conjured visions of white blossoms, gentle morning light, and delicate luxury, aligning perfectly with postwar desires for femininity and grace.

Classified as a floral fragrance, Most Precious was composed of twenty-two of the most prized white flowers, blended to produce a complex bouquet with subtle fruity undertones. Each note was chosen to evoke the purity and delicacy of springtime blossoms, yet with enough richness to leave a lasting impression. The fragrance combined exotic white florals, such as tuberose and jasmine, with more delicate blooms, creating a layered, multidimensional heart that was simultaneously youthful and sophisticated. This bouquet celebrated both nature and artistry, translating the ephemeral beauty of flowers into a wearable, timeless scent.

In the context of the late 1940s perfumery market, Most Precious was both contemporary and distinctive. While floral perfumes were highly popular at the time, Evyan’s approach of combining an opulent array of white flowers with a delicate fruity nuance offered a signature elegance that set it apart from simpler single-flower compositions. Women of the era would have related to Most Precious as a statement of refined taste, an indulgent luxury that embodied sophistication without ostentation. The fragrance, described as “divine” and “lasting forever,” captured the postwar fascination with purity, refinement, and emotional resonance, making it a perfume that appealed to the young and the young at heart alike.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Most Precious by Evyan is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It was reportedly composed up of twenty two of the most precious all white flowers. It is described as a mixture of flowers with fruity undertones. "Totally created from spring flowerings - involving both the exotic as well as the more delicate white blooms divulged by mother nature. The exquisite perfume appeals to the young and the young at heart. Its bouquet - divine; its lasting - forever."

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, petitgrain, citral, fruit notes, fresh cut leaf accord, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, honeysuckle, narcissus
• Middle notes: ylang-ylang, heliotrope, hyacinth, carnation, isoeugenol, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, lily, orange blossom, methyl anthranilate, violet, orris, ionone
• Base notes: tonka bean, benzoin, labdanum, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, civet

Scent Profile:

Most Precious by Evyan is a luminous floral fragrance that opens with a radiant and sparkling bouquet, immediately commanding attention with its vibrant top notes. The first impression is a brilliant shimmer of aldehydes, which add a clean, airy, almost effervescent quality reminiscent of freshly polished linen or a bright spring morning. The bergamot—likely sourced from Calabria, Italy—is bright and citrusy, providing a zesty, slightly bitter edge that balances the softness of the florals. Neroli, the delicate oil from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, contributes a warm, honeyed, and slightly green floral note, while petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the same tree, adds a fresh, leafy, slightly woody nuance. 

Citral, a synthetic element with lemony-green nuances, enhances the citrus top notes, giving them a crisp brightness that lifts the initial experience. Juxtaposed with this crispness are the fruit notes—gentle and sun-kissed—evoking freshly plucked orchard fruits, harmonizing with the green freshness of a fresh-cut leaf accord. These are interwoven with lily of the valley, delicate and dewy, and sweet honeysuckle, whose soft floral nectariness blends seamlessly with the narcotic, creamy facets of narcissus. Hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic ingredient reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley, reinforces the sparkling, airy florals while subtly sweetening the top notes for immediate charm.

As the perfume settles, it blossoms into an opulent middle heart, a veritable garden of exotic and native white blooms. Ylang-ylang from Madagascar contributes a rich, creamy tropical sweetness, its heady aroma harmonizing beautifully with the powdery, violet-tinged nuances of heliotrope. Hyacinth adds a delicate, dewy spiciness, while carnation and its associated isoeugenol impart a soft, clove-like warmth, enhancing the floral complexity without overt spice. 

Jasmine absolute, with its sultry, indolic richness, mingles with the buttery, tropical depth of gardenia and the exotic narcotic creaminess of tuberose, creating an intoxicating floral tapestry. Lily adds elegance with its soft, water-white aroma, while orange blossom lends a luminous, sun-drenched sweetness. Methyl anthranilate, a synthetic molecule evoking grape and orange blossom nuances, amplifies the floral realism and freshness. Finally, violet, orris root, and ionones weave a subtle powdery, soft woody dimension, giving the heart a luxurious, lingering texture that drifts gently across the skin.

The base notes of Most Precious provide depth, longevity, and sensuality, anchoring the sparkling top and lush heart with warm, resinous richness. Tonka bean imparts a sweet, almond-vanilla warmth, balancing the floral brightness above. Benzoin adds a balsamic, subtly smoky richness, while labdanum contributes a golden resinous depth reminiscent of sun-warmed amber. The oakmoss lends a faintly earthy, forest-like undertone, harmonizing with sandalwood, whose creamy, soft-wood facets add refinement. Musk and civet, natural animalic elements, provide a subtle sensuality, a human-like warmth that makes the fragrance intimate and lingering. Together, these notes create a slow, enveloping embrace that evolves over hours, leaving a sophisticated, radiant trail.

From the very first spray to the lingering dry-down, Most Precious evokes the feeling of walking through a sunlit spring garden, abundant with delicate, exotic white flowers. Each ingredient, carefully chosen and masterfully blended, reveals itself gradually, from sparkling citrus and leafy freshness to exotic florals, down to a warm, resinous, and subtly animalic foundation, creating a perfume that is as youthful as it is timeless, as radiant as it is elegant. It is a fragrance that captures the imagination, appeals to both the young and the young at heart, and embodies the enduring artistry of Evyan.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Most Precious by Evyan was originally launched in 1947, emerging in the immediate postwar era when American perfumery was rediscovering glamour, optimism, and femininity after years of wartime austerity. Evyan—already celebrated for its elegant, European-inspired fragrances—positioned Most Precious as a refined yet accessible luxury, a scent that spoke to confidence, romance, and quiet sophistication. Although its exact discontinuation date is unclear, the fragrance remained in Evyan’s catalog for decades and was still being sold as late as 1990, a testament to its enduring appeal and loyal following.

Irma Shorell Version:

After disappearing from the market for a number of years, the Most Precious trademark was acquired by Irma Shorell / Long Lost Perfume, who introduced a reformulated version in 2000. This release was explicitly not the original Evyan composition, but rather a modern reinterpretation inspired by the name and legacy of the fragrance. While it allowed a new generation to encounter Most Precious, collectors and vintage fragrance enthusiasts note that it differs significantly from the original postwar formula in structure, materials, and overall character, reflecting both changing regulations and contemporary tastes.

2015 Reformulation & Relaunch:

By 2015, Most Precious was once again being manufactured and distributed in the United States under the Evyan Perfumes name, suggesting a renewed attempt to reconnect with the brand’s historic identity. However, despite this revival, the fragrance appears to have been discontinued again sometime prior to 2025, quietly exiting the market without formal announcement. Today, Most Precious occupies a liminal space in perfume history: remembered fondly by those who wore it in its heyday, sought after in vintage form by collectors, and emblematic of Evyan’s mid-century elegance—an enduring name whose original essence now survives primarily through memory and rare remaining bottles.

The 2015 Version is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: tarragon, heliotrope, anise oil, lemon
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, ylang ylang, jasmine, orange flower, gardenia, rose
• Base notes: tonka, coumarin

Scent Profile:

The 2015 version of this fragrance opens with an arresting contrast of brightness and warmth, immediately setting the tone for its floral oriental character. The first breath is lifted by lemon, its zest sharp and sunlit, evoking freshly cut peel with a faint bitterness that awakens the senses. Almost instantly, this brightness is softened and sweetened by anise oil, whose licorice-like warmth feels smooth and gently spicy rather than sharp. Tarragon weaves through the opening with a green, aromatic elegance—slightly peppery, faintly sweet, and herbaceous—adding a sophisticated culinary nuance that feels refined rather than rustic. Hovering over it all is heliotrope, with its unmistakable almond-vanilla powderiness; often recreated or reinforced with aroma molecules such as piperonal or anisic aldehydes, heliotrope lends a soft, cosmetic warmth that bridges the brisk top notes to the floral heart below, enhancing their roundness and glow.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blooms into a lush yet balanced floral tableau. Lily of the valley introduces a cool, dewy freshness—its delicate, bell-like clarity typically supported by modern aroma chemicals such as hydroxycitronellal, which give the note its airy, green translucence. Ylang-ylang, likely sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, adds a creamy, golden richness, its tropical warmth deepening the floral core with soft banana and custard nuances. Jasmine—full-bodied and gently indolic—brings sensuality and depth, while orange flower contributes a luminous, honeyed brightness that feels sun-warmed and gently narcotic. Gardenia, creamy and voluptuous, rounds out the bouquet with its buttery floral richness, while rose adds a velvety, romantic undertone, anchoring the florals in classic femininity and lending structure to the composition.

The drydown is where the fragrance’s oriental soul truly emerges. Tonka bean introduces a smooth, balsamic sweetness, its aroma suggestive of vanilla, almond, and warm woods. Central to this effect is coumarin, the key aromatic compound naturally present in tonka, which smells of freshly cut hay, vanilla, and soft tobacco. Coumarin amplifies the warmth of the florals, wrapping them in a gentle, skin-like sweetness that feels both comforting and quietly seductive. This base does not overpower; instead, it melts seamlessly into the skin, giving the perfume its lingering softness and sensual depth.

Overall, the fragrance moves gracefully from aromatic freshness to floral opulence, and finally into a warm, powdery embrace. The interplay between natural materials and their synthetic counterparts gives the composition clarity, diffusion, and longevity, allowing each floral and aromatic note to unfold with precision. Elegant, feminine, and softly enveloping, this 2015 floral oriental feels intimate yet polished—a modern interpretation of classic perfumery that lingers like a whispered memory on warm skin.

Golden Shadows by Evyan (1950)

Golden Shadows by Evyan was launched in 1950, a perfume whose very name carries layers of meaning, memory, and imagery. The fragrance was named after Golden Shadows, the Baron and Lady Evyan’s grand Westport, Connecticut estate. The estate itself took its name from a scene often witnessed at dusk—when the fading New England sun cast long, burnished shadows across the house and gardens. The phrase “Golden Shadows” conjures up a moment suspended in time—sunlight slipping toward twilight, gilding everything in a soft glow before surrendering to evening.

The name alone evokes a mood of elegance and romance. It suggests the warmth of summer evenings, champagne light lingering on silk gowns, and a sense of intimacy caught between day and night. Shadows, often mysterious or melancholic, take on a new quality here—softened by gold, transformed into something luminous and rare. To women of the time, Golden Shadows would have symbolized refinement, luxury, and an almost cinematic glamour, reflecting the aspirational elegance that Evyan so carefully cultivated.

The period of its launch—the early 1950s—was a time when America was experiencing postwar prosperity. It was the dawn of the “golden age” of consumer culture, marked by optimism, suburban expansion, and a fascination with modern glamour. Fashion emphasized femininity: cinched waists, sweeping skirts, pearls, and the polished allure of Hollywood starlets like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. In perfumery, the era was defined by lush florals, aldehydic sparkle, and powdery, long-lasting finishes—fragrances meant to complement the poised sophistication of a woman’s wardrobe.

Great Lady by Evyan (1957)

Great Lady by Evyan (1957) was a perfume conceived as both a tribute and a statement. Baron Walter Langer von Langendorff, known professionally as Dr. Walter Langer, had already made a lasting mark on American perfumery with White Shoulders in 1940. In naming his 1957 creation Great Lady, he paid homage to his wife, Evelyn Diane Westall—affectionately remembered as Lady Evyan. The choice of name itself is steeped in reverence and grandeur: Great Lady conjures an image of dignity, poise, and refinement, a woman whose presence commands respect not through ostentation, but through elegance and self-assured grace. To wear such a perfume in the 1950s would have been to wrap oneself in an aura of sophistication that resonated with the aspirations of women in postwar America.

The late 1950s marked a fascinating moment in cultural history. The austerity of the war years had given way to prosperity, and with it came glamour, luxury, and an emphasis on polished femininity. Dior’s New Look had redefined fashion in 1947, with cinched waists, sweeping skirts, and an emphasis on womanly curves. By 1957, women’s wardrobes were filled with rich fabrics, cocktail dresses, and pearls, and Hollywood icons like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor set the tone for beauty and elegance. Against this backdrop, a perfume called Great Lady would have appealed deeply: it suggested not only refinement, but also a certain grandeur—an aspirational identity for women who desired to embody both softness and authority.

White Shoulders by Evyan (1940)

Beginning in the mid-1930s, Baron Walter Langer von Langendorff, an Austrian chemist, and his British-born wife, Evelyn Diane Westall, known to society as Lady Evyan, set out to challenge the dominance of the French perfume industry by establishing their own fragrance house in New York. Baron Langer, who was often referred to as Dr. Walter Langer due to his advanced scientific training, was deeply devoted to his wife. His affection was such that he named the perfume company Evyan in her honor, a lasting tribute that intertwined their personal and professional lives. Beyond the fragrance house itself, Evyan became a holding company, incorporating several business names and subsidiaries, including Dr. Walter Langer Co., Westall, Westfall, Estall, Felice Co., and Hartnell. The name Parfums Hartnell Distributors appeared in use as early as 1947 under Wolf J. Overham.

In 1940, Evyan introduced its first major perfume, White Shoulders, which remains a recognizable and widely available fragrance to this day, often found in American drugstores. Unlike French perfume houses that cultivated an aura of continental sophistication and exclusivity, the Langers sought to create a fragrance for American women, free of pretension and foreign dependence. Every element—from the scent itself to the packaging—was designed, manufactured, and produced in the United States, a proud statement of independence from the French tradition. In this way, Evyan elevated American perfumery, demonstrating that quality, artistry, and luxury could be achieved without reliance on Europe.

The choice of the name “White Shoulders” has been the subject of charming anecdotes. One story claims that at a dinner party, Lady Evyan appeared in an off-the-shoulder gown, prompting a guest to remark: “Your white shoulders are beautiful.” Another account suggests that the Duke of Marlborough raised a toast in her honor, declaring: “To the whitest shoulders I have ever seen.” Whether born of admiration or aristocratic wit, the name perfectly captured a quality of elegance, femininity, and sensuality. The phrase itself conjures images of sophistication, romance, and refinement—an idealized vision of beauty that American women of the time would have found both aspirational and relatable.